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Zebras depends on the camera and profile in use. All my PDF setup guides list the correct numbers for each camera so refer to those for the appropriate value :) ETTR is for all profiles, HLG included. Cheers! :)

It depends on the camera and profile as each combination is different. My PDF setup guides on the website list each combination so check those for your camera and you should be good 😊👍

No, I usually don't use the in camera LUTs because they can be deceptive in terms of ETTR exposure.

Each camera/profile combination has different zebras for maximising ETTR. I always list them in my PDF guides so as long as you use the correct one for your particular camera/profile combo, you'll be all set :)

@@visceralpsyche yep i saw your PDF, for hlg3 it said 99+ zebras... it seems very high for me, but you are the pro here, i will do what you said... im purchasing the LUT right now

@@karintosco Remember, that's the clipping point, so as long as you don't see the zebras on anything you don't want to clip, then your shot will be fine 😊 👍 Cheers!

@@visceralpsyche thank you man... last question... my sony zve10 doesnt have 99 zebras for the hlg3, it has 95 or 100 or 100+... what should i use?

@@karintosco Make sure you are set to the C2 Lower Limit in the zebra options, then you should be able to adjust to exactly 99+.

There's no way to adjust the overexposure value, so the only advice is to adjust exposure until you no longer see the zebras (only usable with your phone unfortunately) or use Auto Exposure which pretty much does the same thing.

You're welcome 😊 👍

From memory this was the Canon 50mm f1.2L 😊👍

Yeah, you might not always be able to in dark situations. In those instances I normally advice a balance of the ISO vs noise that you are comfortable with, and then in post you can always raise the exposure after applying the LUT using curves etc. HTH!

​@@visceralpsycheSo if a clip gets to dark all tweaks after the lut?

@@sickshots Yes, that's correct 😊 👍

Iris, also known as the f-stop of the lens. In the video it doesn't appear to change because I'm using a speed booster with a manual lens, but it is. Hope this helps! Cheers, Paul 😊

Yes, that way you give all three RGB channels the most dynamic range.

That's because each camera and profile might have different zebra values, so I didn't want people to watch this video and set a value based on a different camera/profile combination to that they might be using. Each PDF guide has all the correct values for the cameras and LUTs, so just follow those and you'll be all good!

Yes, I'd recommend S-log3 as you have a 10bit camera 👍 Cheers!

I don't have a 6400 sorry so I can't test, but if you are shooting in M mode you don't need it anyway as you can set exposure yourself. Cheers!

@@visceralpsyche Yes I wasn't understanding what you meant by iris but now I do, Maybe I should change my kit lens it's a bit dark whatever I do. Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏

Hi Thomas :) If you aren't seeing zebras on anything it may simply be that your scene isn't that bright at the ISO you have selected. The ZV-E10 is an 8bit camera so I'd recommend my Cine2 Still LUT and profile in camera, as it's also a simple Rec709 profile you don't have to fiddle with in post (say like HLG which you have to force most editing software into Rec709 for my LUTs to work). So set Cine2 as per my guide along with the right zebra values for ETTR, then set M mode to give you full control over all the parameters, then set your lens wide open, with shutter at 1/50 or 1/60 depending on your local electricity grid frequency (that's the 180 degree shutter), then if nothing is clipping, raise ISO until you see that it does. There's of course a noise limit so in some cases if you are shooting low light stuff, it's best to figure out your camera's best ISOs for noise and decide where your personal balance is between noise and image brightness. The LUT in post will give you a proper linear Rec709 curve and make the image properly dark in the shadows so don't fear your camera display being to bright when shooting. Just make sure the only clipped areas (if any) are not on skin and are only things like the Sun, practical lights in the shot etc. Hope this helps! Cheers, Paul :)

I was using a manual lens, so the display didn't change even though I was really changing the iris. It's best to email me with a sample image of what you are seeing, then I can give better advice :) Cheers!

You're welcome 😊 👍 For the FX6 you should buy the Sony Picture Profiles and use S-log3. Cheers! 😊

Hehe 😁👍 Cheers!

I used a manual lens to change the iris so it failed to register the changes on the display, that's all. Thanks :)

Thanks 😊

It's because looking at Canon's curve gives you a false sense of exposure, because they brighten the curve more than ETTR would. You end up thinking that the image looks overexposed if you use their curve and try to ETTR, which reduces the overall exposure in post when you apply my LUT. Cheers, Paul 😊

It's easiest to figure this out via email as I'd like to see your images and how they are exposed. Send me an image of what you are seeing to the email address you received the LUTs from and we can go from there. Cheers :)

Yes, I left some clues throughout the film that give more on his (and her) background ;) With this version I actually changed the ending to loop around, so that it inhabited the same universe as another short on my channel called "Pieces of 8", but if you check out the first version I uploaded the ending is different and has a bigger clue.... ua-cam.com/video/0iDncqkBHzM/v-deo.html

The ZV-1 has HLG3 with the appropriate Picture Profile settings available as far as I can see by their user guide. So if the other (non-highlighted) settings in my guide are in different places or aren't there, it's not a big deal as the LUT will still work correctly on the footage provided you are doing the correct colour space forcing in your editor of choice according to my installation guide PDF. Perhaps start with Cine2 Still though as it means you don't have to deal with the colour space conversion aspects, then once you are comfortable with the workflow, try HLG3 with the additional steps above. Yes, I am available for video consultations and have done so with other clients in the past. Send me an email to the address you received the LUTs from for more info. Cheers :)

Correct, aperture. Mine was a manual lens, hence not showing any change as I stopped down. Cheers :)

@@visceralpsyche Cheers! Thank you!

I was using a vintage lens with manual aperture, so there was no digital connection to the camera body. Cheers 😊👍

It's the same method 😊👍

@@visceralpsyche but in low light i don’t see the zebra

@@guidoambrosi4413 You can increase your ISO up to where you're comfortable with the noise level. Practice at home to see where that is. Cheers 😊

@@visceralpsyche Thank you. I already bought from you the lut for sony and fujifilm. Will you also release something for the avata DJI?

@@guidoambrosi4413 Thanks :) It's on my todo list 👍

As a follow up, I did purchase three of your packs for my camera, my GoPro, and my drone - hopefully you can help!

Hi Teddy :) Although I normally advise against auto anything, in the case of vlogging where you are always moving, I'd say use auto ISO as the easiest way to keep the exposure fluid without adjusting things like iris or shutter speed. Most modern vlogging cameras have auto ISO as a feature, along with ways to make it a smooth transition etc. The trick is to figure out ahead of schedule how it tends to expose using the ETTR zebras, and then use EV compensation to adjust the relative exposure up or down so that it's near zebras, but not showing any. Hope this helps! Cheers and thanks :)

@@visceralpsyche Thanks! Just to confirm, do I need to use an external monitor or display hooked into my camera to use ETTR and zebras, or can I use the video feed directly from the camera screen?

@@teddygotsch5832 Directly from the camera screen is actually best, as the zebras will be more precise. Cheers :)

@@visceralpsyche Perfect, thanks! If I am vlogging myself and subjects, should I with between C1 and C2 zebra presets of 85 for skin tone and 99+ recommended highlighted HLG3? Or does filming for skin tones for everything work?

Yes, I had a manual lens on so no data was being passed even though I was adjusting the aperture. Cheers :)

Yes, definitely. I use it for every situation, as it maximises your sensor dynamic range, giving you the cleanest shadow detail. Cheers!

@@visceralpsyche thanks for answering!

Correct 😊 👍

Set the zebras per my guide for each camera, as it varies.

I'll check it, thanks. Not sure if you have anything for the Canon C100 though :)

@@tamasd8 I do - my Canon C Series LUTs. Check my website 😊👍

Hi Alexis :) Yes, the PDF on my website for Sony cameras covers the a6000 Picture Profiles. It's an 8bit camera so I'd recommend using the Cine2 Still profile for best results. Cheers, Paul 😊

Thank you for the kind words! Glad to help 😊👍 Cheers, Paul 😊

I can second this. great job indeed!

Yes, zebras just show you WHAT is clipping, which is what you want to know most of all. From there you have to decide what is important in your scene. HTH! Cheers, Paul :)

@@visceralpsyche Thanks Paul, by the way, I did a comparison between your LUT and others, and yours is the most correct in colors and dynamic range! Last question, I will not mention the actual numbers on the set up guide but you gave us 3 different zebras settings and since you are saying we are using the same one setting for both skins and highlights of walls or sky, which one do we use then? Top on the list, or the one for skin? Thanks again, your work is appreciated.

@@mannyzarate1784 No surprise there re: accuracy - that's the idea of my LUTs :D I normally just use ETTR zebras since that shows me the sensor clipping point. Skin zebras are useful when in a studio where you have full control over lighting and know you aren't clipping the highlights. Cheers!

I was using a manual lens so there wasn't any live iris update info being passed via the mount :)

@@visceralpsyche Doh! Like I say a slow day! Thanks!

@@visceralpsyche Just bought the LUTS pack for the Panasonic G series. So I intend to use it for a GH5 and a G85, shud I use CineLike D on both with your settings - as Vlog is only available on the GH5. Looking forward to finally locking off the whole issue of colour correction as it seems like a real rabbit hole when you peer under the hood. Thanks.

@@scamp_media When using two different cameras where only one supports V-Log I would normally recommend sticking to Cine-D with both, just for easier post matching, but of course in theory, dynamic range difference aside, both should match colour and luma wise with the respective LUTs if you go V-LogL plus Cine-D. My advice is to test both options (don't forget different zebras for different profiles) and see which you prefer. HTH!

Iris is f-stop, so depending on your lens it'll either be operated via a camera dial if it's native electronic mounted, or with an actual iris ring on the lens if it's an older manual one. In my video here I'm using a manual lens which is why it doesn't appear to change on the screen (it was a communications bug). HTH!

Glad to help! Cheers :)

You can certainly reduce ISO if that helps :) Any of the four exposure adjustment tools will do the job: shutter angle, f-stop, ISO and ND filters. Usually though you want a 180 degree shutter so that eliminates one of the four, and usually you want to use an f-stop for creative effect, so you are left with ISO (can cause noise if too high) or ND filters. I generally recommend ETTR to the clipping point, but if you want to expose for consistent skin tones, use the numbers in my setup guide from the website. White balance is best done to a neutral white card (less noise and more precision) but if all you have is a grey card, that will do in a pinch. HTH!

@@visceralpsyche Thank you! Yes I keep my shutter at double my frame rate, which is 25 since I'm in Europe.

Thanks for the kind words! Glad to help :) Regarding your question, I would advocate using my LUT as the monitoring solution, since it's the best way to "see" what the sensor is seeing during recording to maximise dynamic range. Then in post, adjust to taste on the creative side. HTH!

@@visceralpsyche perfect, thank you :) My external monitor grabs the signal of the imported LUT, not the actual "dry" LOG signal from the camera to show the scopes, waveforms etc. Do you think that can cause unwanted issues?

@@eike.zender It should be fine. My setup guide uses that principle for zebras in the Ninja V for example, but if in doubt as to where to set zebras, just get the camera zebras showing and match your external monitor zebra levels to your camera so they face in/out around the same point. HTH!

@@visceralpsyche Thank you very much - that helped a lot :)

Here it was 75% for the Panasonic G Series V-LogL, but it varies by camera type and profile being used. My setup guides give all the details.

With auto anything you're at the mercy of the camera to get it right. The best I can suggest is to test, test and test again with the EV dial to see how it reacts to exposure changes and get the EV dial set up so that it is basically judging the scene just below ETTR, then use that setting. HTH!

To get to ETTR you need to expose appropriately. That means opening up your iris, adding light or increasing the ISO. The noise will be there whether or not you shoot ETTR or not. In fact, if you don't shoot ETTR your noise will be higher. The LUT is converting the log curve to linear so it will naturally appear darker once applied, but that's ANY log to lin curve. By using ETTR you minimise shot noise and maximise dynamic range. Think of it as exposing a film negative. Once in post you then apply the LUT and it looks correct. If the shot was dark, well then it was dark to begin with - the log curve just made it "look" brighter before correction. But it's better to ETTR and have clean shadows. Then you can always darken them in post for effect.

The purpose of the corrective LUT is to give you the full sensor data as it was seen by the camera, free of colorimetry and luma errors. If you underexpose, then the LUT will show that, because the variable of sensor exposure has been removed if you ETTR correctly.

ETTR is basically designed to "fill your film negative" for the most dynamic range in post. Once in post you can then reduce exposure with the cleanest shadow detail. ETTR with my LUT also ensures that the "film negative" has the colours and luma correct. After that you can follow up with grading for effect, knowing that your baseline is spot on. I use the DSCLabs chart to build the LUTs so you don't need to buy one. Once you've applied the LUT, you get the correct linear luma result. Cheers!

It depends on the camera and colour profile. The PDF guides on my website list them for whichever camera you are using 😊👍